Brown Butter Sweet Potato Mash

Ingredients

• 3 pounds sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks
• 6 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1/2 cup whole milk, warmed, plus a little more if needed
• 1 tablespoon pure maple syrup
• 3/4 teaspoon fine salt, plus salt for the cooking water
• 1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
• 1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg

Method

1. 01

   Put the sweet potato chunks in a large pot and cover with cold water by about 1 inch. Salt the water lightly. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a steady simmer and cook for 15–20 minutes, until the pieces can be pierced easily all the way through with a knife.

2. 02

   While the potatoes simmer, melt the butter in a small light-colored saucepan over medium heat. Cook for about 4–6 minutes, swirling often, until the foam subsides and the milk-solid specks turn golden brown with a toasted aroma. Remove immediately if the specks begin turning dark.

3. 03

   Pour the browned butter, including the golden specks, into a heatproof bowl to stop the cooking. Set aside 1 tablespoon of it for finishing. If the solids are black and smell burnt, discard that butter and start again rather than adding bitterness to the potatoes.

4. 04

   Drain the tender sweet potatoes thoroughly. Return them to the warm empty pot with the heat off and let excess steam escape for 2 minutes. Mash by hand, then fold in the remaining browned butter, warm milk, maple syrup, 3/4 teaspoon salt, pepper, and nutmeg.

5. 05

   Add a little more warm milk only if needed for a soft, spoonable mash. Transfer to a serving bowl and drizzle with the reserved tablespoon of browned butter. Serve in six portions. The cook-time estimate includes bringing the water to a boil, simmering, and finishing.

6. 06

   Refrigerate any extra mash in shallow containers within 2 hours, or within 1 hour above 90°F (32°C), and use within 3–4 days. Reheat in a covered saucepan over low heat or in the microwave to 165°F (74°C), stirring and adding a little milk to restore its texture.